Salut à tous, assez nouveau dans le récifal. Je me bats en ce moment a...

HazelWasp35
Nathan
@HazelWasp35 · il y a 3 semaines

Salut à tous, assez nouveau dans le récifal. Je me bats en ce moment avec le phosphate et les nitrates.

Le phosphate est parti de 0,9 ppm il y a environ 4 mois. Descendu doucement avec une faible dose de rowa. Pour l’instant ça me va comme ça jusqu’à ce que j’arrive à la plage cible de 0,1-0,2.

Les nitrates sont à plat depuis que j’ai commencé dans le hobby et ne bougent pas. Des conseils avant que je commence à ajouter des nyos nitrate + ?

Actuellement je tourne avec un écumeur, un refugium avec de la chaeto dedans, un filtre à rouleau, du rowa et un stérilisateur UV incliné.

Plutôt faible population. 240 l pour le bac, 70 l pour la décantation.

Coraux : Duncan, kenya tree, gsp, 2 hammers et un toadstool.

Poissons : clownfish, purple tang, foxface.

Hi all, fairly new to reefing. Having a battle with phosphate and nitrate at the moment.

Phosphate started at 0.9ppm about 4 months ago. Brought down slowly with a low dose of rowa. Happy enough with this for now until I reach the target range 0.1-0.2.

Nitrates have been flat lined since I started in the hobby and will not budge. Any tips before I start adding nyos nitrate +?

Currently running a skimmer, a refugium with chaeto in, roller filter, rowa and a incline uv steriliser.

Fairly low stocking. 240l display, 70l sump.

Coral- A Duncan, kenya tree, gsp, 2 hammers and a toadstool.

Fish- Clownfish, purple tang, foxface.

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I would turn off your skimmer until your nitrates are above 5. I ended up buying a super nice skimmer when I first got a tank but nitrates were bottomed out. I ended up not needed to turn it on until about 6 months in. Too clean of water is also a problem. I also did dose nitrate for a bit so no problem doing that as well. Your soft corals like dirtier water.

Skimmer break makes sense tbh

Agreed

Skimmer switched off this morning, will keep a close eye on it and see what it does. Thank you both 🙂

You need to do a water change and bump up your salinity. Your PH needs to be at 8.2 at least

Dial back the refugium photoperiod: The Chaetomorpha is consuming every trace of available dissolved nitrate before corals can use it, stalling phosphate export. Cut the refugium light down to 3–4 hours per night or turn it off entirely until nitrates register. Pause or reduce mechanical/nutrient stripping: Temporarily pause the roller filter (or set it to advance less frequently) and dial back the skimmer to skim very dry. Keep RowaPhos usage low and steady: Phosphate cannot drop efficiently without nitrate present for biological uptake (Redfield ratio). Do not ramp up Rowa aggressively, or it will strip the water column too fast and shock the LPS/softies. Nutrient Correction Dose nitrate: Dose Nyos Nitrate+ to raise NO_3 into the 5–10 ppm range. Aim for an initial target of ~5 ppm. Increase feeding: Feed the fish (Foxface, Tang, Clownfish) slightly more or supplement with coral foods/amino acids to naturally introduce organic nitrogen. Watch phosphate fall naturally: Once nitrate reaches 5–10 ppm, corals and surviving Chaeto/biofilm can resume consuming phosphate, making the RowaPhos far more effective at bringing PO_4 down toward the 0.05–0.10 ppm target. Addressing the 7.4 pH Check calibration: Verify the probe or test kit first; a true 7.4 during the day is unusually low, especially with 7.5 dKH alkalinity. Increase gas exchange: Run an airline from the skimmer intake to outside fresh air, open a window in the room, or install a CO₂ scrubber to push pH toward 8.0–8.3. This is what you need brother

Thank you for this advice. Much needed. Just before you posted, I had checked and recalibrate ph tester. I got a reading of 7.9. Did 2 more tests after this both at 7.9. I believe the 7.4 to be a false reading.

The primary issue with this tank is nutrient starvation and imbalance: nitrates are bottomed out at 0.00 ppm, phosphates remain elevated at 0.37 ppm, and the system is over-filtered for its light bioload. This combination puts the tank at high risk for dinoflagellates and coral tissue necrosis. The secondary issue is dangerously low pH (7.4).

Anytime I can help anyone be successful this is a great thing to do

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