@USER 1y

Be patient...add things slowly and don't rush the process...

@postalcub97 1y

Thanks that's my goal. I've also setting up a quarantine fluval 13 gallon so I can make sure and so that part too

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@USER 1y

Definitely good idea to have a qt tank on hand....

@postalcub97 1y

Do you have any fish suggestions to look at for that size and what should the water prams. Be

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@USER 1y

Fish...Royal gramma, clownfish, bangaii cardinals, six line wrasse...blenny pretty much any kind...I like starry and bicolor blennies...maybe a hawkfish either flame hawkfish or arc eye or long nose hawkfish...as far as water parameters for a qt tank...test often...make sure ammonia isn't high...keep nitrite and nitrates low...lots of water changes ...at least weekly...I'd get an ammonia badge from seachem they are like 8$ on Amazon

@postalcub97 1y

OK awesome thank you

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@USER 1y

Not a problem 👌

@USER 1y

Also, when buying fish, make sure your source is reliable and has a good reputation on their livestock

@postalcub97 1y

OK I only have 2 fish stores and they are about 1 hr away but they seem to have a good reputation from what I can tell it's cmacs and aquatica

@MyReefJourney 1y

Get biodiversity right after your cycle. Add apocyclop and tisbe copepods and dose live phytoplankton a few times a week. Get your lights on a slow progressive ramp up while everything starts establishing. If you have a smart app do it for as long as you can, in my instance it was 90 days ramp up. Once your cycle is done add some dr Tim eco balance and if you didn’t cycled with it, a maintenance dose of microbacter 7 is also beneficial. Dosing silicate with sponge excel is a good way to add some growth to your filter feeder organism as well unless your tank is sterile. Take your time and don’t shock your system. It’s easy to get excited and change too much too fast. Start with some fish, see how good you can keep things running, then add some cheap frags, and wait until you see that you can get these to grow and thrive then grow and expend like that with caution. You’ll probably have a diatom bloom at first (brown/golden thing covering rock and sand) but these will go away on their own and if you have pods they will actually devour it and you might not even see it. Keep an eye on your nitrate and phosphate. Not too high or you’ll feed algae, not too low or you risk dropping to 0 and dino or cyano will haunt you. Ideally nitrate in the 5-15ppm and phosphate 0.03-0.09 For phosphate you will need a Hannah checker to be accurate. Always remember that it takes time for changes to happen whether it’s positive or negative. Bad things will sometimes take weeks or months before you start noticing if not monitoring and then it quickly overtakes you tank, in the same way recovering from issue will take just as long. A good rule is to say that if it took weeks for a nutrient to get out of wack and bring dinos for exemple, then it might take you weeks to eliminate it and bring everything back to normal. Finally, weekly testing and water changes even 5-10% a few times 3-4 times a month will help more than you can imagine. Yes you can run a tank without testing and water change and you will see a lot of testimonial, but if you’re not expert on reefing, it will be pure luck. Enjoy!

@postalcub97 1y

Thank you for your info. I'm sorry. I'm not sure what all that means, like the dosing. What exactly am I buying and putting in and what does ot do so I know each process of what I'm doing and the benefits my tank is sterile except the Carib sea live sand the rock was used but left out side and not in water so it is curing in bleach water put it in yesterday to kill off any bad things cause I'm not sure what the condition the tank was when it was taken out

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